30 July 2010

almost indecent

Preparing for our summer party usually involves me trying countless new ways of feeding the masses while hopefully adding some excitement and reducing my workload. This year, I dusted off my recipe for quiche that I hadn't been using since my highschool days and tried making it 'presentable'.

As it nears august, the first chanterelles appear on the markets, and upon seeing a particularly nice batch, I decided to make a 'quiche aux chanterelles'.


The results were nice, but nothing overly memorable. We decided I would make a plain version with nothing but scallions and bacon for the party. What could possibly be wrong with that?
On the other hand, the liver terrine turned out a real stunner and will become a separate post one of these days. Believe me, it's almost indecent with how little work you get such impressively tasty results.

16 July 2010

like a river pebble

There is a sweltering heat hanging over Germany since several weeks now. After one of the longest and coldest winters I can remember, this already feels like one of the longest hot stretches in my life.

Not that I am complaining, mind you. Actually, I feel great in this weather, and I can sleep like a little river pebble at night.

Only thing is - I can hardly eat anything. There's so many nice things to cook, but hardly anything is worth writing about.

Grilled goat cheese and fresh tomatoes on bread - who needs a recipe for that?



One day, we tried a lemon cream. It turned out okayish, but really not anything I could brag with.



Of course, I've been baking bread. Lots of it, each weekend. But that's really old news to you, is it?



As I've already mentioned, we slice and freeze the bread for convenient use over the following week, and I thought, that's one picture I haven't uploaded yet. So, here's lots of sliced bread ready for freezing.



But already, our annual summer party is looming at the horizon, with the whole family planning what's to eat and how to organize things. It'll be a comparatively small affair this year, only 40 people or so, but one we're genuinely looking forward to.

And, most importantly, it'll bring a whole lotta new cooking experiments to this site.

29 June 2010

delightfully busy

This has been a delightfully busy weekend.



Baking, gardening, cheering on the German soccer team...



The garden is in full bloom, peonies and roses competing with bellflowers of all shades between white and cerulean. I even took some of the peonies inside to have a little of their lovely scent right at my desk.



And of course, more bread. My scoring still looks random, I fear, but the colour if the crust is great, don't you agree?



Peonies may be wonderful, and yet I still think fresh bread smells decidedly better.

16 June 2010

very happy stranded whales

Finally. Naan at last!

This must have been the single longest quest for a recipe / method that I've ever completed.

See, both my wife and I love Indian food. My wife especially loves naan, the fluffy, crispy, butter-soaked flatbread that's served as a side dish instead of rice.

So naturally, learning how to make naan was high up on my list of things to learn. Yet unlike most of the things my family has put there, naan seemed to be especially difficult to replicate in a home oven. At least, to replicate in a way that my lovely wife would find good enough, that is. (I think I already mentioned once or twice that she is rather discerning and open-voiced about her food... Bless ya, Honey!)

Anyway, these little rascals eluded my culinary grasp for at least two years. Two years, can you believe it?
But a few weeks ago, emboldened by my successes with Anis Bouabsa's baguettes, I tried them again, with a recipe I cobbled together as a median from all those I've tried over the years.

And believe it or not, they turned out perfect!

Crisp on the outside, feathery light and chewy inside, soaked with ghee but far from soggy. Perfectly delicious, and almost a shame to serve merely as a side.

We had them last Sunday with a bowl of nice, hot chicken curry, and we stuffed ourselves to the point that we felt like stranded whales afterwards. More precisely, we felt like very happy stranded whales, lying on our bed, holding hands and watching Germany play their first match in the world soccer championship and win. What a great end to a great weekend.

Naan is a traditional Indian staple, yet I make no claim of authenticity. I've never eaten proper naan in India, nor would I know if any of those I have eaten are 'the real thing'. What I can claim, though, is that these are perfectly authentic Indian naan as served in British restaurants as perceived by a German tourist couple. Though that's probably not even worth the time needed to write that sentence.

Anyway - try them, they're plain delicious and a great alternative to rice in many menus. And I really, really do not take any responsibility if you overstuff yourselves in the process.





Naan 
(makes four medium pieces, as sides for two people)


200g high-gluten flour (German type 550)
50g whole wheat flour (German type 1050)
1/2 teaspoon instant dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon sugar
8g salt
150ml milk
50g unpasteurized yoghurt

2 teaspoons clarified butter (ghee)


On the morning of baking:
For the dough, combine all the ingredients except the ghee and mix for about a minute. Leave to rest for about an hour at room temperature.
The dough will be very wet right now, with hardly any elasticity, but that's okay.

After the rest, knead the dough again for about a minute, then leave to rest for another 30 minutes.

When the dough has rested, transfer into a lightly oiled, shallow bowl and give a set of 'stretch and folds'. Leave to rest for another 30 minutes.

After this rest, give the dough another set of 'stretch and folds'. Rest and repeat two more times, until the dough becomes smooth and stops sticking to your fingers.
Maybe you'll need one more set of 'stretch and folds' than I do, maybe one less. The dough is ready once it is elastic enough that you can lift it out of the bowl in one piece.

Leave to rest, covered at room temperature, until needed, two hours at least.

an hour before serving:
Preheat your oven with baking stone as high as you can. Mine tops out at 250°C.
I wouldn't suggest trying this without a baking stone. Maybe a heavy cast-iron skillet or an upturned dutch oven will work as well, but I really don't know.

Twenty minutes before serving, quarter the dough. On a lightly floured surface, roll each piece into an oval- or tear-shape, not thicker than your little finger. Cover with a dishcloth and leave to proof for fifteen minutes.

Five minutes before serving, pick up the naans and transfer onto the baking stone as swiftly as you can, trying to let as little heat escape as possible.

The naan will only need a few minutes in the oven. They will puff up mightily and start getting golden freckles. Once the first freckles start going from golden to hazel, they're ready.
Take a look at the naan in the picture above, they're a pretty decent guidance. And of course, they're ready when they look ready to you. 

Immediately take the naan out of the oven. Put onto a large plate and flatten gently, if necessary. Divide the ghee between the four pieces and brush them with the melting butter. Serve instantly.



Naan only tastes good fresh out of the oven and doesn't keep at all.
Naan goes perfectly with all kinds of hot and spicy dishes and anything with a decent gravy. Watch out, you might eat way more than you should.


P.S.: This post will be sent to the YeastSpotting section of Susan's formidable blog Wild Yeast, a home baker's resource I can hardly recommend too much.

06 June 2010

quite successfully, I'd say



That's not my front yard, that's yesterday's starter.

Just as a quick note to say that I haven't been sleeping, but baking.
And quite successfully, I'd say.

In a word: Naan at last!



More to come soon.

24 May 2010

But these are store-bought, aren't they?

Last Thursday, 'the boys' were coming over for a pen and paper rpg evening. Most unusually, I had a little surplus time on my hands and I was eager to bake something.

So I grabbed my old, trusty cheese cracker recipe, threw away all parts of the recipe that would have needed my attention and added some bacon. Everything gets better with bacon, I'm sure you can relate to that.
Basically, I mixed up the least fancy, swiftest breadsticks I have ever made, and had a historic succes with them. I am still a little stunned at how well received they were.

Take, for example, one of our friends. He tried one, and after having been a little dumbfounded at how much of our food we actually make ourselves he asked:

"But these are store-bought, aren't they?"

"Nope. Made them this afternoon."

"I feared as much. But they're so... regular, and so... damn tasty."

As you can imagine, we had a lively laugh. Though, maby not as lively as the following day, when my father-in-law got caught eating several of them at the same time, looking rather embarrassed, claiming I was trying to drug him.

I personally blame the bacon. This is a yeasted dough with a very high butter content, leading to a structure that is pretty much halfway between bread and shortbread cookies. Ununsual, but very, very good. Try them, they sure have the best effort to compliments ratio I can imagine.





Cheese and Bacon Breadsticks (dirt simple version)
(makes about two dozen sticks)

250g all-pupose wheat flour
100g whole-wheat flour (German type 1050)
125ml lukewarm water
125g butter, softened
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dry yeast
1 pinch of sugar

100g cheese, finely grated (I used aged Peccorino)
125g bacon


Take all the ingredients for the dough and mix until just combined. Leave to rest for about an hour.

In the meantime, chop the bacon as finely as you can be bothered to. Put into a small pot or non-stick pan and fry until just golden, not crisp. Leave to cool.

After the dough has rested, add the cheese and the bacon and knead one last time until all ingredients are well combined. Transfer to a large bowl and give a set of 'stretch and folds'.

Leave to rest for half an hour, then add another set of 'stretch and folds'.
Even despite the high fat contend, the dough should be elastic and nicely workable by now. If not, give another half hour of rest and one last set of 'stretch and folds'. 

Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Leave to rest for one last half hour, then turn the dough onto a lightly floured working surface. Roll into a rectangle about half a centimetre thick. Cut into strips about one centimetre wide.
Of course, you could now roll them up or give them any number of fancy shapes, but there wasn't much time and I really wanted something as simple as I could get away with.



Transfer onto baking sheets lined with non-stick paper and leave to rest for a final, ten-minute proof.

Bake the bread-sticks with a little steam for about 15-20 minutes or until well browned.
This yields sticks that will be cripy in parts, chewy in others. For entirely crispy sticks reduce the temperature to 190°C and add 5 minutes. 

Leave to cool on a rack.

Goes well with beer and almost everything else, keeps nicely for a few days and can be crisped up again flawlessly in a hot oven.


P.S.: And once more, this post wil be sent to the YeastSpotting section of Susan's formidable blog Wild Yeast, a home baker's resource I can hardly recommend too much.

15 May 2010

on the way to moonshine

Baking bread has become a regular activity for me.

The freezer is stuffed to it's figurative gills and I am getting very comfortable with the whole subject.

Alright, I still haven't managed the perfect Naan, nor can I churn out croissants like a pro. But I'll get there, I'm pretty sure of that.

None the less, yesterday I kicked off a starter culture of a different kind, as you can see to the right.

My maternal grandfather was an avid wine-maker, one of my uncles even burned his own moonshine. (Yep, the one I got the poppy seed mill from.) So, there seems to be a certain family tradition to uphold, which at least in this case I am more than willing to oblige.

I've started a batch of cyser, a mix between a mead and a hard cider, as my first attempt. Given a bit of luck, it should be drinkable at this year's summer party.

This is a really exciting new experiment for me, and you can bet I'll keep you posted on the progress.